Buttery, Garlicky Shrimp Scampi Pasta

Cut each shrimp in half crosswise. In a large bowl, toss shrimp with 3/4 teaspoon (3g) kosher salt and baking soda until evenly coated. Let stand for at least 10 minutes and up to 1 hour. In a 12-inch stainless-steel skillet or large sauté pan, heat 3 tablespoons (45ml) olive oil over high heat until shimmering. Add shrimp in an even layer and cook, stirring and turning shrimp occasionally, until pink, barely cooked through, and just starting to turn lightly golden in spots, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and, using a slotted spoon, flexible slotted offset spatula, or tongs, transfer shrimp to a plate. Add 3 tablespoons (45ml) olive oil to skillet along with garlic and red pepper flakes. Set over medium-high heat and cook, stirring, until garlic is just starting to turn golden, about 1 minute; lower heat if necessary to prevent scorching. Add vermouth and boil over high heat, stirring and scraping up any browned bits, until raw alcohol smell is mostly gone and vermouth has reduced by about half, about 4 minutes. Add butter and cook, stirring and swirling pan rapidly as butter melts to create a silky, emulsified sauce. Remove from heat, add lemon juice, and season with salt. Meanwhile, in a pot of salted boiling water, cook pasta, stirring frequently for first 30 seconds to prevent noodles from sticking, until just shy of al dente (about 2 minutes less than package directions). Using tongs, transfer pasta to skillet, reserving pasta cooking water. Alternatively, drain pasta using a colander or fine-mesh strainer, making sure to reserve at least 1 cup (235ml) pasta cooking water, then transfer to skillet. Add 1/4 cup (60ml) reserved pasta cooking water to skillet, set over high heat and cook, stirring and tossing rapidly, until pasta is al dente and sauce is slightly thickened and coats noodles with a creamy glaze, 2 to 3 minutes, adding more pasta cooking water in 1/4 cup (60ml) increments as needed. Return shrimp to skillet along with any accumulated juices, lemon zest, parsley, and remaining 2 tablespoons (30ml) olive oil, tossing to combine thoroughly. Remove from heat. Season with salt, if needed. Divide pasta and shrimp among serving bowls and serve right away.