Prik Gaeng Pak Dtai (Southern Thai Curry Paste)

Place dried Thai chiles in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, and grind into a fine powder. If using a spice grinder, transfer ground chiles to a granite mortar and pestle. Add black pepper, salt, and fresh Thai chiles to the mortar. Pound until fresh chiles are slightly broken down, making sure to keep the pestle as close to the chiles as possible to avoid splattering chile juices over yourself, 2 to 3 minutes. Vicky Wasik Pounding thoroughly between each addition to break down and incorporate ingredients into the paste (3 to 4 minutes of pounding per addition) add in the following order: galangal; lemongrass; makrut lime zest (if using); turmeric; garlic and shallots; shrimp paste. It should take about 25 minutes total to pound ingredients into a very fine paste with just a few visible pieces of fresh chile skin. Use right away or transfer curry paste to an airtight container, covering paste with plastic wrap pressed directly onto its surface to prevent it from drying out, and refrigerate for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 3 months. Vicky Wasik