How to make stock the right way, the wrong way, and when it matters | Salon.com

If you're using chicken or other thin bones, rinse them well in water to wash them. For thicker bones such as beef or veal, drop them in a pot with cool water, bring to a boil, and drain off the now-blanched bones. Both of these techniques are meant to get rid of some of the blood, loose bits, and impurities that will turn into unseemly scum that you'll have to skim off later.Cover the cleaned bones in cold water and put over high heat. When the liquid is just about to come to a full boil, turn the heat down to a very gentle simmer, like only one or two bubbles at a time. Don't hover over it, but every once in a while, swing on through the kitchen and skim off any fat or scum that floats to the top. Simmer 3 hours for chicken, 5 hours for pork, 7 hours for beef or veal. Top off with water to keep the bones covered, if necessary.Add the vegetables, herbs and peppercorns. Simmer one hour more.Give it a taste. Can you taste a meatiness, some sweetness from the vegetables, and, after you've swallowed, a nice, lingering depth? Don't get me wrong; it won't be delicious. It will be kind of bland, not something you'd want to eat on its own, but that's the point. It's supposed to be a nice backdrop. OK, once you've communed with your stock, strain out the bones and vegetables, then strain it again through the fine-mesh strainer (or you can line your strainer with a few layers of cheesecloth). If you're picky, blot away any little slicks of oil with paper towel corners. Let cool to room temp, then chill or freeze.